Athens has the largest charter fleet in Greece, and most of it leaves for the Cyclades. The islands closer to the city, in the Saronic Gulf and along the Argolic coast, are what the boats that stay behind are for: Aegina, Poros, Hydra and Spetses, each an easy sail from the last, each with a harbour town that was built for arriving by sea.
For anyone flying into Athens with limited time, or anyone who would rather not meet the meltemi, this is the answer.
The marinas
The charter bases are strung along the coast south of the city: Alimos, the biggest by a wide margin, then Glyfada, Lavrion on the far side of the peninsula, and the newer marinas at Flisvos and Agios Kosmas. Alimos is fifteen minutes from the airport by road and the choice for most charters. Lavrion is closer to the Cyclades and further from the Saronic islands.
The islands
Aegina is the closest, an hour and a half from Alimos, with a large harbour town, a temple on the hill and pistachio orchards. It is a commuter island, busy at weekends, and the best first stop on a longer trip.
Poros is separated from the Peloponnese by a channel a few hundred metres wide, and the town climbs the hill above it. Yachts moor along the town quay with the mainland opposite. It is the most sheltered harbour in the gulf and the busiest with charter boats.
Hydra has no cars, no motorbikes and a harbour that looks like a stage set. Berths are few and contested; boats arrive early or anchor in Mandraki bay to the east. The town is the most beautiful in the gulf and the most expensive.
Spetses, the furthest, is green, grand and quieter, with a harbour at Dapia and a second at the old harbour to the east. It marks the turning point of a week.
Along the mainland coast opposite them are Ermioni, a small peninsula town with harbours on both sides, and Porto Cheli, a wide bay that is the safest anchorage in the area.
A day, a weekend, a week
A day. From Alimos, a day sail reaches Aegina, or the small island of Moni beside it, with time to swim and lunch. It is the simplest way to be on a boat in Greece without giving up the week.
A weekend. Two or three nights covers Aegina and Poros, or Poros and Hydra, with a return via the coast. Leave Friday afternoon, back Sunday evening.
A week. Alimos to Aegina, Aegina to Poros, Poros to Hydra, Hydra to Spetses, Spetses to Ermioni or Porto Cheli, then back north via Poros or the coast at Epidavros, and home. No leg is longer than four hours, and every night is in a town.
Why the Saronic avoids the wind
The meltemi, the northerly that blows through the Aegean in July and August, reaches the Saronic Gulf in a weaker form and is blocked by the mainland for much of the route. The gulf gets a sea breeze from the south in the afternoon, which is sailing wind rather than weather. That makes it the safest place in Greece for a bareboat charter in high summer and the reason families and first-timers are steered here.
The exception is the crossing from the islands back to Athens, which is open to the north-east. On a windy day it is a wet beat; a skipper will time it for the morning.
Practicalities
- Mooring is stern-to on town quays with your own anchor, everywhere except the marinas. Arrive by mid-afternoon in season.
- Hydra’s harbour is small and fills by early afternoon in summer. Anchoring at Mandraki and taking a water taxi in is the reliable alternative.
- The islands are served by fast ferries from Piraeus, so crew can join or leave mid-trip without difficulty.
- The season runs from April to October; June and September are ideal. The Saronic is also one of the few Greek areas that works in early spring and late autumn, because the distances are short and shelter is always near.
Who it suits
Crews with limited time, crews with children, anyone who wants a harbour town every night, and anyone chartering in July or August who would rather not test themselves against the meltemi. Sailors who want long passages and empty anchorages should look to the Ionian or the Dodecanese instead.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which islands can I reach from Athens in a day?
Aegina and the islet of Moni comfortably; Poros with an early start on a motor yacht.
Is the Saronic Gulf affected by the meltemi?
Only weakly. The mainland shelters most of the route, which makes it the calmest Greek sailing area in July and August.
Which Athens marina do charters leave from?
Alimos is the main base, with Glyfada, Flisvos and Agios Kosmas nearby and Lavrion on the far side of the peninsula.
Can I get a berth in Hydra?
Sometimes, if you arrive early. Most boats anchor in Mandraki bay and take a water taxi to the town.